I highly recommend this Book The Power of Positive Dog Training ,By Pat Miller
Temperament:
Goldendoodles are an intelligent and obedient family companion. They are everybody's friend and devoted to their family. They are friendly towards children, other dogs and pets, and easy with strangers. They are social dogs, happiest when with people. Goldendoodles are likely to get into mischief and develop behavior problems if they spend most of their lives alone. Their intelligence, eagerness to please, and love of learning make them very easy to train. They are small, medium-to large sized family dogs with easy dispositions.
For daily brushing I recommend the Chris Christensen 27mm T-brush.
Differences Between Boys & Girls?
I am often asked, what's the difference between the little boy and the little girl puppies. The general answer is that each puppy has it's own individual personality and they should be evaluated and matched to families according to their own temperament. Boys are typically a bit more laid back or lazy and girls are a bit more nosy (typical women). I have observed this over the years with many puppies. They are all very loving and sweet , the Goldendoodle breed is a very friendly people loving dog, however. Our goal is match each family with the puppy that is the most suitable. I personally believe that spaying & neutering a puppy as early as possible, 3-6months old, somewhat desexes them and they do not tend to show the male/female tendencies. I have never had a family contact me about a neutered male that was marking the house.
Weight Expectancy?
Typical Growth Chart: 2 x puppy's weight at 16 weeks
Living Conditions & Exercise?
Goldendoodles require a moderate amount of exercise and their coats are generally low maintenance. They can live in the city or on a farm. They are social dogs and they are happiest when they are with people.
Grooming?
As a hybrid cross, Goldendoodles will inherit fur that looks retriever-like, or poodle-like, but usually something in-between. Unclipped Goldendoodles will have hair about 4-7 inches long, shorter on the face and longer on the body, tail and legs. From my observation, they grow about one inch a month. They require combing every few weeks. Depending on how often the dog is groomed, clipped Goldendoodles are groomed several times a year.
For daily brushing I recommend the Chris Christensen 27mm T-brush.
Life Expectancy?
With good care and nutrition, about 15 years.
PUPPY CRATES ----- PLAYPENS
http://www.petcratesdirect.com/puppy-playpens.html
YOU SHOULD ALWAYS HAVE A CRATE BY YOUR BED AT NIGHT THE PUPPY SHOULD SLEEP BESIDE YOUR BED IN HIS/HER CRATE
Crate training is not cruel nor should it be punishment for Puppy. A crate the proper size for Puppy is: a safe place to be while sleeping; safety when you are not around to watch him; a place to eat uninterrupted; a place to go to get away from it all. Dogs are den animals and many like a place they can curl up in and feel secure.
Why Use a Crate?
You can leave Puppy or Doggy home alone with peace of mind. He is comfortable and not forming bad or destructive habits. He also is not going to be confused by your reactions to bad behavior when you return. Remember, dogs do not have the reasoning humans do. When we return and see the garbage rooted through and then punish Puppy, chances are he will not realize what you are punishing him for. He may think you are punishing him for something completely different.
Crates also make house training easier.
Puppies and dogs generally will not soil their sleeping and eating area. Used with a consistent schedule, a crate can be your best ally with house training. Crates offer safety when traveling.
A dog in a crate is far less likely to be injured in an accident. A crate keeps your dog from
bouncing around, getting on your lap, blocking your view or even getting under the driver's feet!
If crating while driving is not possible, at least train Puppy to lie quietly in the back seat or use a doggy seat belt available at many pet supply places.
What a Crate is Not!
A crate is not a substitute for human companionship. Use of a crate should be limited to no more than eight hours, less for a younger animal. If your work schedule is longer than that, consider getting a dog walker to exercise Puppy or Doggy for you midday. There are also Dog Day Care centers cropping up! Crates are not to be used for punishment. The crate must be viewed by Puppy as a afe place to be. Do not allow your children to torment Puppy while crated. Make sure he has fresh water, a sturdy bed and safe toys (rotate toys daily so he always has different ones and a different combination).
How to Measure a Crate
If buying for an adult dog, get a crate big enough that he can fit in from tip of nose to base of tail (a few inches longer in each direction). He should be able to stand up, sit, turn and lie down on his side stretched out comfortably. If buying for a puppy, get one that will fit him as an adult. Some manufacturers even make crate dividers so you can expand the crate area as Puppy grows. If in doubt of size, I opt for the next size up. A crate slightly too large is better than one too small!
Where to Put the Crate
Put the crate in a people area such as family room, kitchen or bedroom. You do not want your dog to feel banished when crated so the cellar or garage is no good.
Where to Get a Crate
Many pet supply and feed stores carry crates or you can mail order them. Do not be put off by the cost - crates are far less expensive than replacing a shredded couch or even carpet cleaning by a professional company. Some crates are quite reasonably priced. You can even find them at yard sales!!! (Make certain all the hardware is there and the door latches correctly and securely).
Introducing the Crate
First remove your dog's collar so he will not get caught. It happens rarely, by why take the risk. NEVER crate a dog with a choke collar on. Choke collars should NEVER be used for everyday use - they are for training and walks only, then should be removed. The same for a pinch collar! Set up the crate in the place you wish to keep it. Encourage your dog or puppy to enter the crate
by enticing him with bits of food. Use something he cannot resist like cooked chicken or hot dog slices. Praise as he enters.
Let him walk in and out a few times. Now start to encourage him to lie down quietly and relax. Give him a couple safe toys and close the door. Sit with him and talk softly. Let him out. Now start to leave for a short time. Even if he cries and whines, do not weaken. He should
adjust to the crate eventually. Just keep making it a positive experience.
How Long to Use the Crate
Some dogs can never be trusted with run of the house unattended. Some dogs are fine. If you think your dog is able to behave un-crated, begin testing by leaving his
loose for five minutes while you walk outside. If that works, increase to ten, fifteen and so on. Should he begin to misbehave, continue using the crate. It is safer for Doggy and saner for you!
Crates as a House Training Aid
Always have a feeding and potty schedule for your puppy or adult dog. This makes house training much easier. If you are not able to be with Puppy, put him in the crate. Take him out on lead and encourage him to go potty. Once he does, praise lavishly and bring back inside.
Should he not go, put him back in the crate and try again in a little bit. Dogs do not like to soil their beds as a rule.
Should he soil the crate, take him out while someone cleans the crate. Do not punish for eliminating in the house unless you catch him in the act. DO NOT rub his nose in it or hit him. Just give a loud, firm, growly "AAAAAH! NO!!!" and get him out immediately. Try to get
him to potty outside and then praise lavishly when he goes.
Remember, the younger the Puppy, the smaller the bladder capacity. It is unreasonable to ask a young puppy to hold an eight-hour day. Consider a dog walker for a midday potty break. Also, sometimes older dogs have bladder control issues. Sudden house soiling in a dog without problems could be a sign of an underlying problem such as a bladder infection. Unaltered or spayed dogs are also more apt to soil in the house. Males if not neutered have a greater chance of wanting
to mark their territory and may do so inside. I also know females who mark.
Do not paper train or use those pads designed for puppy to eliminate on. This only teaches Puppy it is OK to potty in the house. Paper training could actually delay house training.
Some of the better dog foods out there :
Wellness Just For Puppy; http://www.wellnesspetfood.com/dog_wellness_dry_index.html
Merrick Puppy Plate ; http://alpha-nutrition.stores.yahoo.net/puppyplate30lb.html
Flint River; http://www.flint-river-dog-food.com/index.html
Innova; http://www.innovapet.com/
Solid Gold; http://www.solidgoldhealth.com/
treats for my dogs ...only small amounts please : cheese , peanut butter ,
boiled chicken and carrots , I also treat my dogs every time I put them in there crates :-)
Pork in itself is as harmless to dogs as chicken, beef or any other meat. However, there is a slight risk of your dog being infected with trichinosis by eating pork . Trichinosis, also known as trichinellosis, is a worldwide, food borne disease caused by an intestinal roundworm, uncommon in the United States. Both humans and pets who eat raw or undercooked meat of infected animals can develop the disease. Undercooked or raw meat of infected animals contains the roundworm. The disease can lead to muscle soreness and pain together with swelling of the upper eyelids in mild cases but can lead to more severe symptoms. If you would like to feed pork but want to take all necessary precautions, it is recommended that the pork be frozen for 3 weeks to kill the parasite.
The most important precaution is to make sure that all fresh pork and pork products are properly cooked. Other raw and undercooked meat should also be avoided, especially meat from wild animals.
It is an excellent idea to supplement your dog's diet with fresh vegetables, and especially in substitution for a chew. Many dogs like carrots, and there is nothing harmful about providing the odd raw carrot. Their diet, as in humans, should consist of a lot of different things in moderation. Your dog can eat most any vegetables that humans eat, provided that they are in moderation. A little left over vegetables from the family meal the night before are an excellent addition to
your dog's meal.
There are lots of human food items that are not good for dogs. Most would require to be fed in large quantities to have an adverse effect. In most cases the worst symptoms would be temporary diarrhea or muscle spasms, but some (such as chocolate) can have more serious consequences.
Foods known to be toxic to dogs include chocolate, onion, garlic, Macadamia nuts, green parts of tomato plants, potato peelings, raisins, grapes, rhubarbleaves,yeastdough,hops,coffeegrounds/beans, broccoli and pips or stones from many household fruits.
Is your dog food packed with nutrition for good health so your pet lives a healthier and longer life? Is your dog howing signs of premature aging?
Although you may think all pet food manufacturers have your pet’s best interests in mind, this is not always the case. Current pet food regulations allow manufacturers to use ingredients that you would never knowingly give to your pet. In fact, you may be shocked to learn what some brands of pet food really contain. For example: the use of by-products (feet, bones and intestines, etc.), chemical preservatives (BHA and BHT) and grains that are often difficult to digest (corn, wheat, gluten and soy), which are often used as a protein source instead of meat
Don’t see your brand of pet food? Here’s how to compare your brand
1. Get your bag of food. Look for the Ingredient Statement on the label.
2. Read the first 5 ingredients. They play a significant role in the nutritional make-up of a food.What are the protein sources? We believe the primary source should come from quality
animalprotein, not vegetable protein or grain. Foods that list 2 or more grains in the first 5
ingredients may have more vegetable protein than animal protein.
Chicken meat contains a certain amount of moisture; however, chicken meal is a concentrated source of chicken protein because most of the water has been removed. Therefore, it stands to reason that you get a greater “protein content” in 1 pound of chicken meal versus 1 pound of chicken.
What about grains? Two or more grains listed in the first 5 ingredients means your food may have more vegetable protein than animal protein. Grains such as soy, corn, corn gluten and wheat gluten can be difficult to digest, which means less nutrition and more clean up.
Brown rice is ok as a grain.
Are there by-products? Some manufacturers consider by-products inferior sources of protein and, depending on the ource, they can be difficult to digest.
What are the fat sources? Some fats are better than others. We believe the primary fat source in dogfood should be animal based because animal fats contain a profile of fatty acids that are easily metabolized and thus are generally more available to the body.
3. Does your food contain other health-promoting ingredients, such as: Vegetables, Beet fiber,Antioxidants, Proteinated Minerals, Bacteria cultures.
Your dog deserves the very best food. Compare dog food to see how your dog food measures up?
Look for the things that SHOULD NOT be in a healthy dog food
Poor Protein Sources-Soybean Meal, Wheat, Corn Glutens, Corn Meal, Whole Corn, Crushed Corn and Ground Corn are commonly used for their protein content in many pet foods.
These ingredients are generally poor sources of protein vs. meat.
Chemical Preservatives- BHA, BHT and ethoxyquin are found in many pet foods. Scientific studies have proven that these chemicals can be harmful. In fact, they have been shown to
promote liver disease and other medical problems.Food Coloring- Food colorings are still commonly used in pet foods today despite the fact that they are not necessary and
some have been linked to medical problems.
BY-Products- By-products can vary ... they can consist of the internal parts of animals such as necks, heads, undeveloped eggs, feet, intestines, lungs, spleen and liver. Although by-products are used by many manufacturers, are these ingredients you would knowingly feed your pet?
What the Labels do not Reveal- Condemned parts and animals rejected for human consumption can be rerouted into commercial pet foods. These condemned parts are referred to as the 4 D's: dead, dying, diseased or decayed. We believe this is one of the most despicable practices in
the pet food manufacturing industry.
Some manufacturers have a lower standard regarding the quality of ingredients they use to make pet food. A recent example of this practice is the discovery of Pentobarbital in major pet foods, including supermarket brands. Pentobarbital is a chemical used to euthanize animals. Many
holistic veterinarians feel that daily ingestion of pentobarbital can be harmful.
Many manufacturers cut costs by using the cheapest ingredients available at the time a food is made. Since costs rise and fall, some manufacturers will vary ingredients from
batch to batch .. resulting in changed nutrient values for each batch and possible digestive illness.
Some manufacturers have lower standards regarding the freshness of ingredients they use to make pet food. You can not determine the freshness of ingredients by reading a label; you must trust the pet food manufacturer.
My preference is the F1B coat and the F3 coat (both 75% Poodle) are very consistent in none shedding , in my past experience with F1 & F2/F2B you get a lot of shedding and open face / flat coat looking pups ....you lose the Teddy Bear look not in all but some pups.
F1 = Golden Retriever x Poodle
F2B = F1 Goldendoodle x F1B Goldendoodle
F3 = F1B Goldendoodle x F1B Goldendoodle OR
F3 = F1B Goldendoodle x F2B Goldendoodle OR
F3 = F2 Goldendoodle x F2 Goldendoodle OR
F3 = F2B Goldendoodle x F2B Goldendoodle
Multigen = any pairing of F3 x F3 or above
Sugar puppy female He is your friend , your partner , your defender,
your dog. You are his life , his love , his leader .
he will be yours , faithful and true , to the last beat
of his heart .YOU owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion .
" Unknown ..."
Parasites In Puppies
The most common internal parasites for puppies are roundworms, hookworms, coccidia, and tapeworms.
Roundworms look like spagetti and can cause a puppy to have a “pot belly.” Most puppies have roundworms at some point. Roundworm eggs can be passed from mothers to babies through nursing. The life cycle of roundworms is two weeks. Roundworm eggs are larger than other parasite eggs, and are quite distinctive. Because of this, they
are easy to detect in a “floatation” fecal check.
Hookworms are much smaller than roundworms, and are not usually seen, but they’re more dangerous than roundworms. The hookworm attaches to the intestinal lining and can cause internal bleeding as it moves from place to place. They can also migrate into the lungs. A puppy infested with hookworms will appear thin, and have a dry,
unhealthy looking coat. Puppies can be born with hookworms, and can die within 10 days if they and their mother are not properly treated.
Coccidia is not a worm. It is a microscopic internal parasite (protozoan) common in warm, humid climates. Most southern breeders have a problem with it because of the heat, humidity, and mild winters – nothing dies. Coccidia can be stress-related. A puppy may have a negative fecal check result from a vet, appear perfectly fine, but show
evidence of coccidia as soon as he goes to a new home. Albon, the prescription medication for coccidia, doesn’t actually kill it. It washes the puppy’s digestive tract, taking the coccidia with it. From what I’ve read, it’s the puppy’s own immune system that eventually will kill any remaining coccidia. A young puppy’s immune system is not fully developed, so it takes time for the puppy and it’s immune system to mature. My vet says most adult dogs have coccidia, but they also have the antibodies to fight and control it. A puppy with coccidia that is not well cared for and not treated with Albon will eventually develop watery diarrhea and can dehydrate. This is when coccidia can
become a serious condition – the coccidia replicates unchecked, and the puppy can become very ill.
Tapeworms come from fleas. A young flea will eat tape worm eggs, and puppies get tape worms if they swallow a flea. The tapeworm is segmented and flat, so what you will see are small, flat, cream colored pieces less than a half inch long. The most common place to see them is around a dog or cat’s behind. These moving pieces contain tapeworm eggs. When they’re dry, they look similar to uncooked rice. Tapeworms can cause a loose stool.
Giardia is a parasite is less common, and more difficult to diagnose. It would probably not be detected by a vet using the normal “floatation” method of fecal screening. It causes periodic diarrhea and loss of appetite; a puppy with severe giardia is likely to be thin. There is a vaccine for giardia manufactured by Fort Dodge.The prescription medications (from your vet).
Strongid T (pyrantel pamoate) – For treating Hook and Roundworms. It is a yellow liquid given once, and then 2 weeks later. In a stubborn case, treat 3-5 days in a row, and then repeat the same in 2 weeks. If you have a litter of puppies, the first worming should be at 2 weeks of age, repeated every two weeks until 8 weeks of age. The mother should be treated at the same time.
Panacur (10% Fenbendazole) –For treating Hook and Roundworms. It is a white liquid that tastes terrible. Dose 1cc per 5 pounds for 3 consecutive days, and repeat process in 2 weeks. The benefit of Panacur is that it usually works in a situation where Strongid T has been ineffectual. It also comes in granular form, to be mixed with food.
Drontel is another medication prescribed for hookworms. It comes in pill form, and is also used to treat tapeworms.
Droncit, Drontel, or Centex- For treating Tapeworms. It is a serrated tablet given once, repeat if tapeworms reappear.
Albon –Treatment of Coccidia. It is a dark yellow liquid given for 10-21 days. Double dose the first day of treatment. Also comes in pill form.
Metronidazole -For treatment for Giardia. It is most common in pill form but can be gotten in liquid form by special order. Give once daily by weight for 10 days, twice daily (divided dose) in severe cases. Panacur has actually been found to be more effective in treating giardia.Even a healthy appearing puppy can have some form of parasite. When you get a new puppy, it’s always a good idea to have a fecal exam done by your vet, even if the puppy just had one by the my vet. When they puppies are shown and sold they have had a clear check from the vet, but as I mentioned, going to a new home can be stressful. That’s when parasites are more evident, and easier for a vet to detect.Don’t forget about heartworm preventative for your new puppy! This can only be gotten from a vet, so you should discuss the different options with him or her.
WHAT IS A BREEDER?
A Breeder (with a capital B) is one who thirsts for knowledge and never really knows it all, one who wrestles with decisions of conscience, convenience, and commitment.
A Breeder is one who sacrifices personal interests, finances, time, friendships, fancy furniture, and deep pile carpeting! She gives up the dreams of a long, luxurious cruise in favor of turning that all-important Show into this years 'vacation'. The Breeder goes without sleep (but never without coffee!) in hours spent planning a breeding or watching anxiously over the birth process, and afterwards, over every little sneeze, wiggle or cry. The Breeder skips dinner parties because that litter is due or the babies have to be fed at eight. She disregards birth fluids and puts mouth to mouth to save a gasping newborn, literally blowing life into a tiny, helpless creature that may be the culmination of a lifetime of dreams.
A Breeder's lap is a marvelous place where generations of proud and noble champions once snoozed. A Breeder's hands are strong and firm and often soiled, but ever so gentle and sensitive to the thrusts of a puppy's wet nose. A Breeder's back and knees are usually arthritic from stooping, bending, and sitting in the birthing box, but are strong enough to enable the Breeder to show the next choice pup to a Championship. A Breeder's shoulders are stooped and often heaped with abuse from competitors, but they're wide enough to support the weight of a thousand defeats and frustrations. A Breeder's arms are always able to wield a mop, support an armful of puppies, or lend a helping hand to a newcomer. A Breeder's ears are wondrous things, sometimes red (from being talked about) or strangely shaped (from being pressed against a phone receiver), often deaf to criticism, yet always fine-tuned to the whimper of a sick puppy. A Breeder's eyes are blurred from pedigree research and sometimes blind to her own dog's faults, but they are ever so keen to the competitions faults and are always searching for the perfect specimen.
A Breeder's brain is foggy on faces, but it can recall pedigrees faster than an IBM computer. It's so full of knowledge that sometimes it blows a fuse: it catalogues thousands of good boning, fine ears, and perfect heads... and buries in the soul the failures and the ones that didn't turn out. The Breeders heart is often broken, but it beats strongly with hope everlasting... and it's always in the right place! Oh, yes, there are Breeders, and then, there are BREEDERS!